Wine regions organise themselves. Syndicats, appellation bodies, producer federations and promotional councils exist for almost every recognised name in France, and they operate on this extension as a matter of course. The Languedoc has more of that structure than most, because it has spent thirty years arguing about its own identity. Appellations have been created, boundaries redrawn, yields cut and bulk production deliberately abandoned in favour of quality. That argument is unfinished, which makes it interesting.